July 5th 2017 Edit: This build guide is a bit out of date. I wouldn’t specifically recommend the electronics listed in this build. Since the release of this guide last fall, dozens of new escs and 20mm x 20mm flight controllers have been released, many of which would make for a better build. This recent SX4 build, which differs only in the prop size to a SX3, would serve as a far better example than this guide… Email us or hit us up in our facebook group for more suggestions.
Building the BQE SX3 is not a beginner project. Here is a build guide to getting everything in place. I’ve tried to take as many detailed photos as possible. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us here or on facebook.
- Presolder your motors to the escs,
- Remove the black signal ground wires
- Solder 4 wires to your mini RX
- Solder pins into PikoBLX and Innova VTX so they are ready to stack
- Add liquid tape to the back of the Mini RX, to keep antenna secure and insulated
- Take the middle carbon plate, and put the four screws through the plate, with 2 nylon washers on each screw
- Place the escs for the front motors on top of the washers
- Add 1 nylon washer to each screw, and tighten down 4 nylon standoffs to secure
- Fold the wires for the rear escs under the esc, so they point out the rear, and stack that esc on top of the nylon spacers
- Secure rear escs with 4 nylon standoffs
- Trim and solder the power for the FRONT escs, to the FRONT underside of the PikoBLX. Be sure to give yourself just enough wire so it can fold into position on the stack.
- (in previous version of this guide, the instruction was to solder everything underneath. This is not the easiest way to go.)Solder the signal wires for the FRONT escs, to the FRONT TOP of the PikoBLX.If you solder these underneath with the power, you will need a custom motor mix to use motor 5 and 6… this is a pain. Solder the signals to the top.
- This would also be an ideal time to solder the RX wires to the underside of the PikoBLX as well. but I forgot to do it at this step and did it later
- Solder your xt30 battery lead to the PikoBLX (not shown in photo)
- Coat the antenna plug with liquid tape if you haven’t already.
- Place doublestick tape on the back of your Furious Mini RX, and feed the antenna through the slot into the battery strap area, and back into the next slot so it runs out the back of the quad.
- Run RX wires under the bottom esc to the rear of the quad, and fold them up to connect to the bottom of PikoBLX.
- Add standoffs and 16mm screws to the bottom, sandwiching the arms between the bottom and middle plates
- Tighten down your screws.
- Solder your mini RX wires to the underside of the PikoBLX, if you haven’t already
- Stack PikoBLX on top of the nylon spacers and solder the rear esc power and signal wires to the top rear of the PikoBLX.
- Add two nylon nuts to secure the right side of PikoBLX and 2 nylon standoffs to the left side
- Trim the threaded nylon that is taller than the nuts on the right side
- Stack the VTX on top of the PikoBLX, making sure not to bend the pins
- Add 2 more nylon nuts to the top of the stack
- Trim threaded nylon to top of nuts
- Inspect your work and test for shorts
- Make wire harness for camera
- Seat camera and adjust wires to fit
- Bolt on motors using the included 6mm screws
- Attach SMA vtx lead to Innova VTX and thread through top plate
- Twist top plate to create loop in antenna lead, so that the slack is spiraled on top of VTX
- Carefully press top plate into position
- Secure with 8 M3 screws
- Attach antenna
(alternately you can use a Furious antenna that snaps on to the VTX, and it can be routed through top plate and secured with zip ties)
- Bind mini RX to your radio using bind button under the camera
- Configure PikoBLX with your favorite firmware and settings
- Focus camera and adjust tilt and settings
- Enjoy crashing!
Feb 1, 2017
UPDATE: Furious heard the call and brought back the old tabless design. Back in November they had started selling a design that didn’t fit as intended, with tabs that protrude past the 27x27mm square.)
These are now readily available, but if you have trouble sourcing them, there are still options for building the SX3.
- You can use the new style Silky 2-in-one escs turned 90º so the motor tabs are out the sides. This approach may require you to lengthen motor wires on some motors with short wires. But, motors like the DYS BX1306 and Racerstar 1306 come with long wires that work fine. Other motors like the Racerstar 1407 have solder tabs and you can use whatever length wire you need. The new Lumenier escs are also this tabbed design.
- You can use escs on the arms. Several manufacturers have quality escs that will fit on the arms. They will over hang but a slight amount, but it’s barely noticable. The Spedix ES 20a Lites are the WAY to go. Tiny, Dshot.
- You can wait and see what’s coming. We’ve been in touch with Furious and competing manufacturers, and there are 4-in-one options coming soon. How soon, we can not guarantee. 4-in-one 10amp escs are already available, but we have not tested these with 1407 motors. We are hoping the 15-20amp models drop in the coming days, but can only wait and see.
We will be updating the build guide as soon as possible to reflect these changes, and we apologize in advance if this causes any inconvenience. This is something that was out of our control, and surprised us today when we received a shipment of the new style escs.
If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us.
Thank you for your understanding and support.